Have you ever longed to step back in time — to experience a quieter, simpler way of life?
High in the remote mountains of the central Baja peninsula, that experience is still possible.
In the rugged canyons of the Sierra de San Francisco, about 2,500 descendants of Baja’s earliest ranching families still live much as their ancestors did — riding mules along ancient trails, tending goats in steep arroyos, and serving as guardians of some of the most extraordinary cave paintings on Earth. Join us Saturday, November 21 to Thursday, December 3, 2026.
High in the remote mountains of the central Baja peninsula, that experience is still possible.
In the rugged canyons of the Sierra de San Francisco, about 2,500 descendants of Baja’s earliest ranching families still live much as their ancestors did — riding mules along ancient trails, tending goats in steep arroyos, and serving as guardians of some of the most extraordinary cave paintings on Earth. Join us Saturday, November 21 to Thursday, December 3, 2026.
These are not ordinary rock art sites.
They are the UNESCO World Heritage cave paintings of the Sierra San Francisco — vast murals dating back as far as 10,800 years. Powerful human figures, deer, bighorn sheep, and mysterious abstract forms stretch across canyon walls. Some murals extend more than 150 meters in length. There are hundreds of sites hidden throughout these mountains.
They rival the great painted caves of Lascaux — yet here, you stand before them in the open desert air, without crowds, without barriers, in profound silence.
I first journeyed into these mountains 25 years ago with a few friends. It remains one of the most meaningful places I return to — not only because of the magnificence of the murals, but because of the people. The Californios,
considered the first cowboys of what was once Alta California — are descendants of settlers chosen by the Jesuits centuries ago to inhabit this stark and beautiful land. Their culture is nearly self-sufficient, deeply rooted in tradition, and increasingly fragile in our modern world.
Traveling here is not simply sightseeing.
It is riding mule-back into steep canyons.
Sleeping under desert stars.
Sharing meals prepared simply and generously.
Listening to stories passed down through generations.
Witnessing art that predates most of recorded human history.
This November, I will be taking a very small group into these mountains for an intimate, respectful journey to several of the most extraordinary mural sites.
If you are drawn to wild landscapes, living history, physical challenge, and meaningful cultural connection — this is a rare opportunity.
They are the UNESCO World Heritage cave paintings of the Sierra San Francisco — vast murals dating back as far as 10,800 years. Powerful human figures, deer, bighorn sheep, and mysterious abstract forms stretch across canyon walls. Some murals extend more than 150 meters in length. There are hundreds of sites hidden throughout these mountains.
They rival the great painted caves of Lascaux — yet here, you stand before them in the open desert air, without crowds, without barriers, in profound silence.
I first journeyed into these mountains 25 years ago with a few friends. It remains one of the most meaningful places I return to — not only because of the magnificence of the murals, but because of the people. The Californios,
considered the first cowboys of what was once Alta California — are descendants of settlers chosen by the Jesuits centuries ago to inhabit this stark and beautiful land. Their culture is nearly self-sufficient, deeply rooted in tradition, and increasingly fragile in our modern world.
Traveling here is not simply sightseeing.
It is riding mule-back into steep canyons.
Sleeping under desert stars.
Sharing meals prepared simply and generously.
Listening to stories passed down through generations.
Witnessing art that predates most of recorded human history.
This November, I will be taking a very small group into these mountains for an intimate, respectful journey to several of the most extraordinary mural sites.
If you are drawn to wild landscapes, living history, physical challenge, and meaningful cultural connection — this is a rare opportunity.
A Rare 2026 Exploration: The Other Side of the Sierras
This year is different.
After decades of guiding into the Sierra de San Francisco, my outfitter and I are undertaking something entirely new.
We will approach the mountains from the opposite side — entering canyons I have never before taken a group into.
Special permission has been granted by the Mexican government to visit mural sites that very few outsiders have ever seen. For some of these caves, the only written descriptions come from Harry Crosby’s landmark 1970 book, The Cave Paintings of Baja California. My outfitter personally surveyed these sites just last month in preparation.
This is not a standard route.
It is not a repeat itinerary.
It is a true exploratory expedition.
Among the rarely visited sites we plan to see are:
To stand before them — in silence, in the open canyon air — is something very few people in modern times have experienced.
This year’s journey is not simply a return to beloved places.
It is a once-in-a-generation opportunity to explore the other side of the mountains — to follow older, lesser-traveled paths — and to witness rock art that remains largely unknown to the outside world.
This year is different.
After decades of guiding into the Sierra de San Francisco, my outfitter and I are undertaking something entirely new.
We will approach the mountains from the opposite side — entering canyons I have never before taken a group into.
Special permission has been granted by the Mexican government to visit mural sites that very few outsiders have ever seen. For some of these caves, the only written descriptions come from Harry Crosby’s landmark 1970 book, The Cave Paintings of Baja California. My outfitter personally surveyed these sites just last month in preparation.
This is not a standard route.
It is not a repeat itinerary.
It is a true exploratory expedition.
Among the rarely visited sites we plan to see are:
- Cueva de la Serpiente (26 ft. long - drawing above, from Crosby's book)
- Corralito (the painted shelter is 200 ft. long)
- Super Nova
- Natividad (the largest painted rock shelter in Baja California, 500 ft. long)
- Palmarito
To stand before them — in silence, in the open canyon air — is something very few people in modern times have experienced.
This year’s journey is not simply a return to beloved places.
It is a once-in-a-generation opportunity to explore the other side of the mountains — to follow older, lesser-traveled paths — and to witness rock art that remains largely unknown to the outside world.
The Journey
We begin in the historic seaside town of Loreto — the first European settlement in what was then California, founded in 1697. Set along the turquoise waters of the Sea of Cortez, Loreto is the perfect place to slow down and settle into “Baja time.”
We’ll spend two nights here acclimating to the rhythm of the peninsula. One day, we’ll board a traditional panga and cross the shimmering waters to one of the nearby islands to snorkel in what Jacques Cousteau famously called “the world’s aquarium.” The marine life, clarity of light, and desert-meets-sea landscape create an unforgettable beginning.
Then we turn inland.
Driving north, we leave pavement behind and ascend into the rugged mountains to a remote ranch — our gateway to another world and to the Great Murals hidden within these canyons.
Here we meet our guides — the Californios — men born and raised in these mountains, whose families have traveled these same trails for generations. As people have always done here, we continue on mule-back, following narrow paths that wind through vast arroyos and over high mesas.
Along the way, we visit isolated ranches where families still live largely as their ancestors did. Their hospitality is genuine and warm. They proudly show us their handmade, hand-cured leather saddles and polainas (traditional strap-on leg protectors), explain plant-based medicines gathered from the desert, and share stories of life far removed from the noise of the modern world.
Our camps lie deep in beautiful canyons, far from roads and artificial light. From these base camps, we hike to as many as ten unique mural sites.
This journey is far more than an exploration of the Sierras.
It is a sojourn into the hearts and minds of a people whose way of life reflects traditions rooted more in 17th-century Spain than in 21st-century America.
It is a physical journey — by mule, on foot, across desert and canyon.
It is a cultural journey — into a vanishing ranchero world.
And it is a human journey — standing before images painted nearly 11,000 years ago, contemplating the continuity of life across deep time.
Is This Expedition Right for You?
This is truly an off-the-beaten-path expedition.
We will be traveling through rugged, steep mountains on narrow, rocky trails carved centuries ago. Some sections traverse high canyon walls and exposed terrain. If you have a significant fear of heights, this is not the right journey for you.
The only access to these mural sites — and to the remote ranches scattered throughout the Sierras — is by mule along these historic paths.
Our mules are sturdy, gentle, and deeply experienced on this terrain. They know these trails better than we ever could. That said, you do need prior riding experience — enough to feel comfortable on long day rides in remote country and to confidently mount and dismount your mule without assistance.
I am not a lifelong rider myself, yet after many journeys into these canyons, I have developed deep trust in the animals and often find the hours in the saddle profoundly peaceful. Riding into the silent desert, through still mountains and ancient arroyos, is part of the magic.
Yes, there are occasional steep ascents and descents over rocky, uneven ground. At times it can be physically and mentally challenging — and that challenge is part of what makes the experience so meaningful.
From our camps deep in the wilderness, we hike to the mural sites.
Hikes can last an hour or more each way on unmaintained trails that are rocky, uneven, and sometimes steep. There will be sections of boulder-hopping through rugged arroyos. Because of this terrain, hiking poles are not recommended; they can easily become wedged in rocks and create tripping hazards.
If you have knee, ankle, or mobility issues, this trip is not advisable. You should be comfortable trekking in mountainous terrain and have recent hiking experience on uneven trails.
Age is not a factor. Fitness, balance, and sure-footedness are.
For your safety — and for the cohesion of a small group traveling in remote wilderness — a strong baseline of physical capability is essential.
This is truly an off-the-beaten-path expedition.
We will be traveling through rugged, steep mountains on narrow, rocky trails carved centuries ago. Some sections traverse high canyon walls and exposed terrain. If you have a significant fear of heights, this is not the right journey for you.
The only access to these mural sites — and to the remote ranches scattered throughout the Sierras — is by mule along these historic paths.
Our mules are sturdy, gentle, and deeply experienced on this terrain. They know these trails better than we ever could. That said, you do need prior riding experience — enough to feel comfortable on long day rides in remote country and to confidently mount and dismount your mule without assistance.
I am not a lifelong rider myself, yet after many journeys into these canyons, I have developed deep trust in the animals and often find the hours in the saddle profoundly peaceful. Riding into the silent desert, through still mountains and ancient arroyos, is part of the magic.
Yes, there are occasional steep ascents and descents over rocky, uneven ground. At times it can be physically and mentally challenging — and that challenge is part of what makes the experience so meaningful.
From our camps deep in the wilderness, we hike to the mural sites.
Hikes can last an hour or more each way on unmaintained trails that are rocky, uneven, and sometimes steep. There will be sections of boulder-hopping through rugged arroyos. Because of this terrain, hiking poles are not recommended; they can easily become wedged in rocks and create tripping hazards.
If you have knee, ankle, or mobility issues, this trip is not advisable. You should be comfortable trekking in mountainous terrain and have recent hiking experience on uneven trails.
Age is not a factor. Fitness, balance, and sure-footedness are.
For your safety — and for the cohesion of a small group traveling in remote wilderness — a strong baseline of physical capability is essential.
On our way back to Loreto to re-enter the 21st century after our expedition back in time, we will stop by another cave painting site that is a little easier to access: San Borjitas. And, then take a day to sit with all we have experienced before we head home on December 3. We are not the same people as when we first started....this adventure changes you.
This journey is more than an exploration of ancient art.
It is a passage into deep time.
Into living ranchero culture.
Into vast desert silence.
And this year, into places few have ever seen.
If this calls to you, I invite you to reach out soon. Space is intentionally limited, and this exploratory route will not be offered casually.
This journey is more than an exploration of ancient art.
It is a passage into deep time.
Into living ranchero culture.
Into vast desert silence.
And this year, into places few have ever seen.
If this calls to you, I invite you to reach out soon. Space is intentionally limited, and this exploratory route will not be offered casually.
"Six days deep in two canyons in Baja and 7 caves. Riding 20+ miles with thousands of feet of elevation gain and loss, camping in the bottom of palm canyons or staying at ranchos with local Californios, to see the most amazing pictographs I have ever seen. But we also saw some Great petroglyphs, found metates and manos, and lots of sea shell and obsidian flakes. Truly a fantastic trip with great people and memories that will last a very long time." ~ Kirk A. Astroth, Tucson, AZ, archeologist.
"The paintings are spectacular
The scenery is breathtaking
The cowboys are amazing
The mules are incredible."
~ Tom Nowak, Santa Fe, NM/Todos Santos, BCS, turtle rustler
"The paintings are spectacular
The scenery is breathtaking
The cowboys are amazing
The mules are incredible."
~ Tom Nowak, Santa Fe, NM/Todos Santos, BCS, turtle rustler
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Details: This is an arduous expedition, and I do mean expedition. It is 8 days on mule back through the rugged Sierra San Francisco mountains; camping the entire time, in very remote places - far from civilization. You must be comfortable riding on steep, narrow mountain trails. We will be hiking from our base camps on unmaintained mountain trails. Physical ability: Very Strenuous.
Price: $2950 USD, includes all hotels (double occupancy), 1/2 day snorkeling trip to the island (equipment and guide provided), all ground transportation and lodging from Loreto to the Sierra San Francisco and return, all meals while camping, some meals while at hotels before and after camping, all camping gear, all guides, and mules. Airfare and tips are not included. Single Supplement: $500 USD. Space is limited. To reserve your space with a non-refundable deposit of $800 USD, click on the Book Now button below, which will take you to a secure site. |
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